Cocktails With La Mére

While in Morocco, we have managed (oh the struggle) to visit some slightly out of the way but highly recommended places for lunch or evening cocktails. All were wonderful experiences greeted by curious and supercilious staffs, with many warm conversation s and genuine connections. We actually posed an interesting challenge to all the establishments we visited. We were traveling with Bonnie’s mother Doris, an 83 year old woman, suffering through the effects of stroke she had while recovering from open heart surgery at the beginning of 2004. She has balance problems and limited use of her right leg. Walking is very difficult but she is a strong willed and spitefully determined woman and tries to scoot around, unhelped and unheeding of the risks, whenever she can. We wanted her to see some glorious places with us, somethings to remember and perhaps even to aspire too. You can see the risk here. We wanted sumptuous, palatial, regal places to go but we wanted kindness and understanding and suspension of judgment. This is a tricky balance and perhaps an impossible request for some places to meet.

Kasbah Agafay

Lunch by the pool, with a little spitfire of a tabby. A former hillfort, adapted splendidly into a luxury hotel. The war like visage has been smoothed into a wide and appealing view. WIth the atlas’ as a backdrop. Very gracious and very young staff, largely female

Ksar Char-Bagh

Down an absolutely hysterical, winding and twisting stretch of unnamed road in the Palmeraie this fantasy of Moroccan villa was the most theatrical, the most expertly staged, and despite all the topless women around the pool, the most formal of the places we went to. Not to say the were not friendly or welcoming, but as we worked our way through the levels of staff we felt judged and enchilla, were to be deemed worthy. We had had a great bottle of rose Semuloia by a pagan altar inspired poolside. This was the most Amanjande of the batch

Caravan Serai

Absolutely my favorite, The warmth of the design is matched by the warmth of the staff. While possessing the same theatricality of the other places we visited, the scale was smaller, more intimate and thus more connecting and embracing.We went for cocktails and stayed for diner. And oh what a diner.

As a side note, we have discover what looks to be the patriarch of the little cat community that has gathered around us. He is a great big tabby, with muscles and attitude. We have named him Mo. Obviously.

The Cats

• Mo – big male tabby
• Sublime – big female white with brown markings
• Fes – young male grey stripe
• Rabat – young male grey stripe with reddish hind quarters
• Jinane – small young tabby, maybe female
• Majdouline – small young white female with brown markings